A little surf talk....
On the evening of day ninety five, I wound up talking surfing with a couple of guys, Andrew and Steve, outside of my friends place on a Monday Night.
A: You know, I've been getting pitched a little bit more at the cliffs. I think I'm taking off too straight, and not heading down on the lefts. I've found myself getting pitched at the bottom of the wave.
T: You know, I almost never go straight. I can't do bottom turns on the flats in front of the wave yet. So, I'm always hugging that bottom slope section.
A: What about on rights?
T: I guess on rights I'm a little more aggressive on the bottom, but only because I know I can turn faster and with more power.
A: I'm the same. It's just lefts. I think I just need to find more of an angle to take off at. you know - not go straight.
S: It's so fun. there's always learning.
A: I remember when I was younger, and I noticed myself improving. I told my mom that whenever I get better I always suck at the next thing.
T: Surfing every day has really helped me. I've defiantly gotten better.
S: I'll bet!!
T: Now, I try to do top turns. I try to get at least one top turn per session if I can. Sometimes I can't.
S: That's fun, you can splash around a bit.
T: I'm not throwing spray, or anything radical like that. I'm just trying to get up to the top off of a good bottom turn and get turned back around to re-enter.
S: You have to find the right spot to hit. Let the wave make the turn for you.
T: Sometimes I get that. Then, I hear that you're supposed to straighten your back leg to dislodge your fins. That's supposed to push your tail out and get you centered over your front foot.
A: Oh, really. I guess that makes sense. I never thought of that.
T: I try it when I can. I can't say that I'm really successful at that.
A: On the funboard?
T: Yea, I do it all on the funboard. Lately, though, I keep looking for excuses to bring the shortboard. If it's anything over 2-3, I'll bring the shortboard. I'm trying to get better on it.
S: that's good. it takes time.
T: For me, there's a confidence factor, too. I'm always afraid of not placing my feet right. Most times, I do. but, at least once a session, I'll wind up with both feet too far back and no control whatsoever.
A: You definatly have to pick your days for the different boards.
S: You know, I'm pretty happy with my quiver right now. I've got a 9'0" longboard that's a lot of fun. I've got my shortboard. Then, I've got this 7'0" board with a more rounded nose that's pretty good all around town.
A: Some kind of hybrid?
S: Yea. The nose is still pointed, but it's just got more rounded sides. It took me a while to get the fin adjustments. I ride it with the two side fins, and a little center fin that I shaved down to almost nothing. It keeps the tail really loose.
A: I've seen some boards like that. They're popular.
S: There's all kinds of boards out there, right now. there's so many options and different rides. it's really cool - retro boards, fishes, and all the combinations.
T: This is kind of is the hybrid era.
S: It kind of is.
A: Surf's supposed to get better out there, eh?
T: Yea, in the next couple of days.
A: I keep saying that I'm going to meet you out there in the morning. But, I need the cooperation of my roommate. (laughs)
T: I hear ya.
More Later
-Travis
copyright 2004 Travis R. English
A: You know, I've been getting pitched a little bit more at the cliffs. I think I'm taking off too straight, and not heading down on the lefts. I've found myself getting pitched at the bottom of the wave.
T: You know, I almost never go straight. I can't do bottom turns on the flats in front of the wave yet. So, I'm always hugging that bottom slope section.
A: What about on rights?
T: I guess on rights I'm a little more aggressive on the bottom, but only because I know I can turn faster and with more power.
A: I'm the same. It's just lefts. I think I just need to find more of an angle to take off at. you know - not go straight.
S: It's so fun. there's always learning.
A: I remember when I was younger, and I noticed myself improving. I told my mom that whenever I get better I always suck at the next thing.
T: Surfing every day has really helped me. I've defiantly gotten better.
S: I'll bet!!
T: Now, I try to do top turns. I try to get at least one top turn per session if I can. Sometimes I can't.
S: That's fun, you can splash around a bit.
T: I'm not throwing spray, or anything radical like that. I'm just trying to get up to the top off of a good bottom turn and get turned back around to re-enter.
S: You have to find the right spot to hit. Let the wave make the turn for you.
T: Sometimes I get that. Then, I hear that you're supposed to straighten your back leg to dislodge your fins. That's supposed to push your tail out and get you centered over your front foot.
A: Oh, really. I guess that makes sense. I never thought of that.
T: I try it when I can. I can't say that I'm really successful at that.
A: On the funboard?
T: Yea, I do it all on the funboard. Lately, though, I keep looking for excuses to bring the shortboard. If it's anything over 2-3, I'll bring the shortboard. I'm trying to get better on it.
S: that's good. it takes time.
T: For me, there's a confidence factor, too. I'm always afraid of not placing my feet right. Most times, I do. but, at least once a session, I'll wind up with both feet too far back and no control whatsoever.
A: You definatly have to pick your days for the different boards.
S: You know, I'm pretty happy with my quiver right now. I've got a 9'0" longboard that's a lot of fun. I've got my shortboard. Then, I've got this 7'0" board with a more rounded nose that's pretty good all around town.
A: Some kind of hybrid?
S: Yea. The nose is still pointed, but it's just got more rounded sides. It took me a while to get the fin adjustments. I ride it with the two side fins, and a little center fin that I shaved down to almost nothing. It keeps the tail really loose.
A: I've seen some boards like that. They're popular.
S: There's all kinds of boards out there, right now. there's so many options and different rides. it's really cool - retro boards, fishes, and all the combinations.
T: This is kind of is the hybrid era.
S: It kind of is.
A: Surf's supposed to get better out there, eh?
T: Yea, in the next couple of days.
A: I keep saying that I'm going to meet you out there in the morning. But, I need the cooperation of my roommate. (laughs)
T: I hear ya.
More Later
-Travis
copyright 2004 Travis R. English
posted by travinator @ 10:17 AM
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