Could'a been a dentist
After the filming of "The Endless Summer", for which he received no proceeds, Seal Beach local boy turned star of the surfing screen, Robert August returned to Southern California and enrolled in the dental college at the recently opened California State University campus in Long Beach.
He never graduated.
On Sunday, the swell was still pretty good sized, but the wind was up and the water was choppy. The combination of swell and chop made for some pretty ugly conditions. Paddeling wasn't easy, to say the least.
While I was out in the water, I saw a surfer, who I thought I recognized as Venice, carry an orange shortboard down to the shore line. She stood and watched the surf for several minutes, then re-positioned thirty yards down shore and watched the surf for a few more minutes. Then, she turned around and walked away, leaving the beach without even getting her hair wet.
Brett and I both agreed that we respected that. It's always said that if one can judge that the conditions are outside of one's comfortable ability, it's better to leave and surf another day. I've never actually done that, and have paddled around in surf conditions that I had no business paddling around in. To date, I've had a few scares, but never been hurt.
I'd like to think that next time, I'd be as smart as Venice.
Since Sunday, the swell has been decreasing and I've been surfing at the Newport jetties, where I get to share waves with the Newport Harbor High School Surf Team on Tuesdays and Thursdays. There's noting like a bunch of young, loud, highly skilled, rude attitude surfers to make you remember just how old you are.
But, who am I to complain. I remember the bumper sticker about "the worst day fishing...", and realize that it could be worse.
I mean, Robert August could have been a dentist.
More later
-Travis
copyright 2004 Travis R. English
He never graduated.
On Sunday, the swell was still pretty good sized, but the wind was up and the water was choppy. The combination of swell and chop made for some pretty ugly conditions. Paddeling wasn't easy, to say the least.
While I was out in the water, I saw a surfer, who I thought I recognized as Venice, carry an orange shortboard down to the shore line. She stood and watched the surf for several minutes, then re-positioned thirty yards down shore and watched the surf for a few more minutes. Then, she turned around and walked away, leaving the beach without even getting her hair wet.
Brett and I both agreed that we respected that. It's always said that if one can judge that the conditions are outside of one's comfortable ability, it's better to leave and surf another day. I've never actually done that, and have paddled around in surf conditions that I had no business paddling around in. To date, I've had a few scares, but never been hurt.
I'd like to think that next time, I'd be as smart as Venice.
Since Sunday, the swell has been decreasing and I've been surfing at the Newport jetties, where I get to share waves with the Newport Harbor High School Surf Team on Tuesdays and Thursdays. There's noting like a bunch of young, loud, highly skilled, rude attitude surfers to make you remember just how old you are.
But, who am I to complain. I remember the bumper sticker about "the worst day fishing...", and realize that it could be worse.
I mean, Robert August could have been a dentist.
More later
-Travis
copyright 2004 Travis R. English
posted by travinator @ 5:21 PM
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